process
Initial sketches - Dream Gown
Initial sketches - Death Dress & Delirium Jumpsuit
Initial sketches - Denim Jumpsuit & Denim Set (later split into two looks)
Initial sketches - Denim Set (later split into two looks) & Desire Set
Initial sketches - The jumpsuits
Initial sketches - The dresses
Initial draft - jumpsuit
Draft for blouse to go with Desire Set
Cutting toile - jumpsuit
Cutting toile - flare jeans
Cutting toile - vest
Toile - Death Dress
Toile - Dream Gown 2nd pass with alterations to the top
Completed toiles before first fitting
Completed toile of Desire Set size 2 before first fitting
Desire Set size 1 - first fitting
Denim Jacket - sleeve draft. The initial plan to have a denim tow piece set became to separate looks here. I felt the denim two piece set and denim jumpsuit looked too similar and decided to add sleeves to the vest and make a skirt.
Toile - pink organza top The initial plan to have a denim tow piece set became to separate looks here. I drafted an organza top to accompany the flare jeans, bridging the gap between the sheer organza and chiffon looks and the denim patchwork.
Denim fabric assembly process - all the denim in this collection is repurposed from discarded pant legs. I ripped open the seams to get more color variation and wear detail. I then cut the denim into rectangles and reassembled it like a puzzle with an overlocker. Here you see long strips that will be connected together to create a larger piece of fabric.
Jumpsuit pant legs cut out of the denim patchwork fabric
Denim jumpsuit pieces prior to sewing
Jeans - back yolk
Patchwork jeans - first try on
Denim jumpsuit - first try on
Denim set - first try on prior to splitting it up into two separate looks; the jacket with a skirt and the pants with an organza tank
Delirium Jumpsuit - partially assembled
Delirium Jumpsuit - partially assembled
Cutting out the Desire Set out of the final fabric, a textured, pale-blue wool blend
Desire Set - Mostly assembled except some seams that are left open to make embroidery easier
Izzy (@isajkapart) drawing the artwork for the Desire Set's skirt embroidery directly onto the toile.
Transfer paper with the design overlays the assembled skirt
Image is transferred onto the skirt
Image after being transferred onto the skirt
The beginning of embroidering the skirt, using cotton thread and the stem stitch to achieve a smooth, matte design on the blue, wool blend fabric.
The front of the skirt, partially completed
Right side of the skirt, hand drawn onto the skirt and then embroidered to achieve continuity from front to back.
Left side of the skirt, hand drawn onto the skirt and then embroidered to achieve continuity from front to back.
Beginning the embroidery on the black organza Delirium Jumpsuit using many colors of cotton thread
Progress on the pants of the Delirium Jumpsuit
First try on with some embroidery finished to see the effect with the sheer fabric on a body
Beginning of the embroidery on the chiffon Death Dress, this time using navy cotton thread
Tattoo flash inspired sketches done by me for the Death Dress embroidery
Tattoo flash inspired sketches done by me for the Death Dress embroidery
Death Dress embroidery progress